Saturday 11 June 2022 – 06:45
After 51 years, Elisabetta Lenzi, recognized to all as Betta, hangs up the pan and retires. From “Il Duomo” to “I 7 Tavoli”, passing via Capraia with “Lo Scorfano” and the Yacht Membership of Livorno, she has been the purpose of reference for feeling good on the desk for 5 many years. “Now I care for the grandchildren and my mom Adriana”
The primary time he set foot in a restaurant he was sixteen years previous. The in-room calendar cunningly marked “1971,” the illuminated signal on the entrance “The dome”on the helm piero father and mother Adriana, now proudly ninety years previous. Fifty-one years later, Elizabeth Lenzi, or as all Betta mentionedflip off your lights “Lamp” shaking fingers with new administration and deciding to completely grasp the pan on a nail, successfully firing their historic Marseillaise, gold plating 1974. Future? Pension, or quite half-board, “possibly part-time, however not extra just like the proprietor of one thing of mine though I’d have an concept, however there may be Religion (the son of now 41 years and journalist of Il Tirreno, ed.) that stops me. I’ve to be a grandmother to Bruno and Alice. After which I’ve to consider mother, I am 90 years previous and he or she wants me.”
“When prior to now I considered closing every thing, I’d not have considered it -she continues melancholy- it makes me somewhat unhappy to go away not on the crest of the wave, however somewhat limping. Earlier than COVID-19 it was one other story. After all we had issues like everybody else, however in the long run it continued. Then the pandemic introduced us to our knees and because of workers misfortune and superior age, I used to be pressured to promote and move the hand”.
gray eyes and penetrating of those that have contained in the libeccio that caresses the Cala Rossa of Capraiaher second house, blonde and rebellious, discouraged and bitter as a curly salad, a warrior soul, a nervous and critical face just like the dishes he has all the time introduced to his purchasers who’ve nearly all the time change into pals. Like these onerous nostril squida historic recipe from Capri that he proudly re-proposed in recent times from his restaurant right here in through Roma 251.
Betta has all the time been like this, hard-nosed For higher or worse. Bluntly, prefer it or not, however with an infinite coronary heart. A coronary heart that has all the time been breathed in his dishes, in his means of not skimping in life as in work. Betta is like this: from 0 to 100. An enthusiastic-angry-never tamed. “If I’ve come this far, you may know, it is as a result of I by no means surrender. I by no means gave up. And issues have by no means occurred to me in my life.” Like when danger your life (write it down eh please say this too put this within the deck too) remaining in mattress for nearly a yr after a horrible accident within the Cisa on April 27, 1985 when with Vinicio Saltini, Donatella Domenici, Francesco and Paola Salviniseeing him once more leather-based in Varese they slipped underneath a truck in pouring rain after a tunnel. “I nonetheless keep in mind the ache I felt. We actually danger dying. If I shut my eyes, every thing is in entrance of us.”
As a result of in Betta’s life there was, though nonetheless latent, the nice ardour for basketball or quite… for Pielle who within the legendary 80s discovered a refuge and refuge in one other place “I 7 Tables” which he directed from 1978 to 1988 there in through Montebello on the nook with through San Jacopo in Acquaviva. “What stunning seasons – remembers Betta behind her kitchen counter ready to gentle the range for the final scheduled dinners – The complete group of the leather-based after which additionally the opponents, the referees, all of the basketball that counts. The Liberties? Pussa away you recognize… not even for a dream. It was proudly a small den. However not solely. In these years I keep in mind that he additionally got here to dinner with us. Gigi Proietti of which I maintain a phenomenal reminiscence. Good, quiet. I keep in mind that she requested me for a chunk of Parmesan cheese on the finish of dinner. She introduced him a pleasant piece that lay fantastically on a plate. she checked out me and he or she mentioned: mSo take a chunk off and provides it to me, proper? after which too claudio baglioni. She carried out at Villa Mimbelli and at evening she got here to see us. She got here in, stepped ahead and shook my hand, saying: a pleasure I am claudio. And I answered: I do know“.
Then there was the Capraia, the rugged and wild island, particularly between the 80s and 90s. Nonetheless to be found. And there opened Betta “The Hen”. “These had been golden years. Doing the season was actually worthwhile. Absolutely not like now. I keep in mind the fiery August with a restaurant overflowing and overflowing with individuals.”
Then the little break from the catering. Additionally in Capraia the selection to separate somewhat from the orders and stoves. And he took refuge in a tobacconist that he ran together with his then associate Armando Raciti from 93 to 98. However the name from the Marseillaise, made in “Nonna Adrian since 1972” Made with love and care, it is just like the siren’s music. and so determine paradoxically return Within the continent and open one other room. Actually loopy, an actual paradox to consider it. In reality, that was exactly what it was referred to as. tapas and pizza restaurant in through Vittorio Veneto, a stone’s throw from the police station, “The paradox”. And right here the legendary rosary beads to bake pizzas and the aphrodisiac appetizer “Squid with almonds” or the elegant “Shrimp Clouds”.
However for Betta, life by no means stopped. “A guide just isn’t sufficient, I informed you.” Thus the help to attain the golden objective of his profession. “They supplied me to take the restaurant of the yacht membership. It was a really troublesome private second. I initially mentioned no. Marriage ceremony ring (sure, all the time the identical, the son who works at Il Tirreno, ed.) checked out me and mentioned: should you say you are not loopy. And though I am somewhat loopy, in November of that troublesome yr 2000 I entered via that door that results in the lighthouse, with the odor of the ocean hitting your face.”
They had been so many great years. Right here, among the many VIP purchasers, Betta had the respect of serving Luca Lamb of Montezemolo. “However from a culinary viewpoint, as a buyer, as an example, it gave me little satisfaction. I keep in mind that she had a boiled fish. A sole and nothing extra. He informed me that he was not used to consuming a lot”.
However buckle up. Elisabetta Lenzi’s curler coaster does not cease. And so one other spherical of carousel with the opening in 2007 of “The Lamp” in Capraia. Some loves do not finish, they take huge turns after which come again, Venditti sang. And for Betta that blessed and cursed island has all the time been like that. An important and infinite hate and love.
And 4 years later we attain the final stage of this nice infinite journey with the opening of the Lamp and Betta within the place the place the pizzeria as soon as stood rosin. “I keep in mind a luxurious opening. It was November 17, 2011. I went huge. At my facet, my mom Adri, tireless, who we keep in mind till two years in the past, was right here each morning to arrange sauces at 88 years previous. After which the participation of my honest pal Luciano Zazzeri who did us the respect of being baptized.”
Sure, he, the one from Pinewood, the one with the Michelin star. “The cook dinner. However for Betta he was alone Luciano. “A real pal. Deep. Typically we’d spend hours and hours till the morning chatting.” A really robust friendship born in these blissful and weird afternoons of ganglion in Caciaia the place they smelled one another and acknowledged one another instantly.
After 11 years, Betta turns off the lights on her Lamp. She modifies fingers and lays down the baton. “The restaurant will proceed to be referred to as that however there’ll not be the and betta to shut the writing of the place”.
And the way will we handle with out the Betta Marseille? The Marseillaise goes with me. Little doubt. It should stay a reminiscence within the palates of my purchasers. Bitterness? I am 51 years previous, you recognize. A life. Somewhat bit comes the Magone “.
No, it is not tears, it is just a bit libeccio that made our eyes pink whereas we had been writing, don’t fret. That very same libeccio that has all the time maddened Betta’s soul and hers warrior spirit that roars in me…and that, let’s put our minds relaxed, will all the time roar…even in retirement.
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